Have you got a minute?
Then we'll begin. ;-)
The months leading up
to this were plagued by self-doubt. Two DNFs and recollections of the
brutal ascent had me convinced that it was a step too far for me. I
told Stuart Blofeld at the Lakeland 50/100 that I was seriously
considering not going. Such was my doubt I hadn't even booked my
travel yet and it was only a month away! He tried to talk sense into
me. I was hearing him but ….
My miraculous comeback
and strongest ever finish at Lakeland 100, along with recent PBs in
short fell races as well as long Ultras, finally convinced me that I
was fitter than I had ever been so it had to be now or never, just
get the job done whatever it took to make it third time lucky. Travel
got booked and for the first time I began to look forward to my third
visit to Chamonix.
Chamonix was looking
resplendent with its clean streets and luxuriant hanging baskets,
planters and window boxes laden with billowing blooms. The constant
sunshine topped off the effect to perfection. At registration on
Thursday and race day on Friday it was a who’s who of
ultra-running. The UK representation was large. I found myself
constantly stopping for ear-bending sessions as another familiar face
appeared or I heard my name called. Jenn Gaskell and supporting
family, Mick Wren, Mark Dalton, Stu Blofeld and friends Dino Ilaria
and Chris Howe, Simon Webb, Roger Taylor and Terry Conway were just
some of them.
One notable absentee
from the thronging masses (at least while I was doing my thronging)
was Jez Bragg. I had threatened to go to the front line to say ‘ow
do before race start but that proved impossible; they were fenced off
in their own security pen, and in any case the big names didn't
emerge from their sponsor’s penthouse suite until 5 minutes before
race start (I only half jest). I was trapped somewhere towards the
back of the crowd but at least I got a good view from the top of the
steps and I was sufficiently far from the loudspeakers for the
blaring music not to rupture my eardrums.
The announcers did
their best to whip us up into a frenzy as we waited in the warm
sunshine for our 16:30 start. As the music blared, one notable track
that caught my attention was
Daft Punk’s 'Get Lucky'. I can feel
the bass on the Hi-Fi at home but there, it verged on sound warfare.
It was ace.
Finally the UTMB
signature tune started up – Vangelis’ '
Conquest of Paradise' –
and we started. In reality we stood still, inched forward a bit,
stood still, watched our feet so we didn't trip, inched, stood
still, stood still some more, inched, walked, shuffled, almost ran,
and stopped dead. It was just like a traffic jam on a motorway. The
cheering from the crowds lining the street was deafening. Cameras
were thrust out from all quarters to capture the spectacle of 2,469
mostly Lycra-clad and pole-wielding runners setting off on a very
long journey. People who recognised me called out my name but my view
of them was so fleeting I forget who they were. Paul Tierney was one
I do recall shouting out my name from the left as we were leaving
Chamonix centre and finally able to run.
A fixture of the UTMB,
day and night and in all weathers, is the crowds. They are clearly
awestruck and full of admiration for us. They are unbelievably
uplifting if a little embarrassing at times as it borders on
adulation. ‘We’re not worthy’ (at least I'm not; I'm just
any old plodder, not an elite Tour de France athlete like they seem
to think we are).
Following is the best I
can remember of my race experience, much of it not having gone in
because I was in survival mode, self-monitoring and taking care of
myself for much of the time. The photos I took have acted as good
memory-joggers.
Chamonix through Les
Houches to Le Délevret (13.8km)
We were feeling the
heat as we ran the undulating trail through the woods towards Les
Houches. I caught up with Stu Blofeld and Chris Howe and we chatted
as we ran and sweat ran into our eyes. On the climb up to the main
road into Les Houches I was amazed to see Mick and Jacqui Cooper
cheering us on. “What are you doing here? What a nice surprise.”
Stu ran up the hill and out of sight before the checkpoint. “He’ll
be going for a storming time, like he can”, I said to myself.
On the climb out from
the Les Houches checkpoint I saw an excited group of runners ahead to
the left, cameras being fumbled with. A very bemused-looking Kilian
Jornet looked as though he REALLY didn't want to be there and would
rather be running (at the front). He was hating the attention. I
considered joining in with the camera-fumbling but quickly dismissed
the thought in the interests of decency, to save further discomfiture
of the phenom.
Further up the trail
out of Les Houches I was caught up by threesome Roger Taylor, Mark
Dalton and Simon Webb. They dropped back a little and I never saw
Mark again until the finish, but it wasn't long before Roger came
storming back up the trail with afterburners ablaze, overtaking
everyone with his speed hike and causing heads to turn. I never saw
him again. He finished back in Chamonix over 5 hours ahead of me.
Roger, Mark and Simon on the climb from Les Houches.
I have no recollection
of Le Délevret, but the electronic timing splits give the following
stats:
Race distance: 13.8km
Altitude: 1776m
Race time: 01:58:18
Stage speed: 6.90km/h
(uphill)
Race position: 1015
Le Délevret to
Saint-Gervais (7.2km)
All downhill to
Saint-Gervais; with legs still fresh we enjoyed easy running in the
evening sunshine. I had a 35-hour and 40-hour pacing chart around my
wrist, which Stu had kindly made for me. It looked so professional I
would have sworn it was official, but he assured me it was his
creation. It gave me the distances and even told me what refreshments
to expect at the aid stations. I really appreciated being informed
and having a better idea of what to expect. It helped me mentally and
gave me better purpose. I was well ahead of the 35-hour schedule but
I knew it would slip.
Arriving at the always-buzzing Saint-Gervais.
Race distance: 21.0km
Altitude: 810m (lowest
point of the course)
Race time: 02:50:28
Stage speed: 8.37km/h
(downhill)
Race position: 972
Time in checkpoint: 1
minute
1:33 ahead of 35hr
schedule
Saint-Gervais to Les
Contamines (9.7km)
This section was gently
uphill (by UTMB standards at least). As the evening light was
beginning to fade, at one point we ran between lines of paraffin
torches on the ground. One had gone out. I jokingly told the man
standing behind it that his fire's gone out. Looking back through my
photos, I saw that he dutifully relit it. I never realised at the
time.
Relight my fire.
That's better!
It was dark by the time we arrived at Les Contamines and another busy refuelling session of noodle soup, Coke, tea, bread, cheese, salami, cake, bananas, orange segments, whatever took our fancy. We were quite spoiled for choice. I had forgotten that the UTMB refreshments were this good. It was a party atmosphere with music, commentary and cheering crowds. Thank goodness the weather was so good this year.
Race distance: 30.7km
Altitude: 1170m
Race time: 04:45:05
Stage speed: 5.40km/h (uphill)
Race position: 960
Time in checkpoint: 2 minutes
1:40 ahead of 35hr schedule. Woo-hoo!
Les Contamines
through Notre Dame de la Gorge to La Balme (8.1km)
The gentle uphill
gradient continued to Notre Dame de la Gorge before steepening to La
Balme. I always remember the lane leading into Notre Dame de la Gorge
with its dim festoon lighting and illuminated cubbyholes containing
religious (Catholic) statues. I look at every one as I run past.
I always look forward
to the coloured lights of Notre Dame de la Gorge and the carnival
atmosphere of happy spectators whose cheers and encouragement send us
powering our way with vigour up that long, steep, rocky path. At this
point I still have energy in the legs and I enjoy overtaking the
pole-wielders with my hands instead occupied by drink bottles. It
feels so easy now but I know what they’re all thinking: "Show-off. I’ll 'ave
eem latterr when ees knees ‘ave gone."
The coloured lights of Notre Dame de la Gorge.
As La Balme came into
view up ahead, we could see the line of torch lights rising from
there and zigzagging its way into the sky to mingle with the stars.
This is the UTMB. I grabbed some Coke and took a spare seat by the
fire. As I ate one of my mini pork pies I looked around me to see
everyone clothed from head to toe. Even then some were still
shivering. I felt quite comfortable in shorts and T-shirt (the
T-shirt having just replaced the vest in readiness for the night
chill, which was never significant because there was so little wind).
Looking back on climb out of La Balme.
Race distance: 38.8km
Altitude: 1706m
Race time: 06:22:29
Stage speed: 5.09km/h
(uphill)
Race position: 1011
1:45 ahead of 35hr
schedule. Woo-hoo again. How much longer can this go on before the
inevitable slowdown hits?
La Balme through Col
du Bonhomme to Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme (5.4km)
From La Balme we
climbed to the stars for the first of many times over the next two
nights. Looking back towards the checkpoint, the sight of the torch
lights leading up to it and onwards up to where I was standing was
awe-inspiring. Nowadays it’s the piercing cold white punch of LED
light compared to the dim yellow incandescent glow of yesteryear.
Looking back on the climb to Col du Bonhomme.
My memory is dim but as
far as I can recall, the Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme was just a
timing point near the mountain refuge hut not long after the high
point at the Col.
Race distance: 44.2km
Altitude: 2443m
Race time: 07:57:28
Stage speed: 3.41km/h
(uphill)
Race position: 967
Refuge de la Croix
du Bonhomme to Les Chapieux (5.2km)
This stage really was
downhill all the way. Les Chapieux was a welcome oasis to really
recharge the batteries for the next long, tough stage that would take
us into Italy. However, we had to queue to get into the checkpoint.
There was a random kit check. I had to show my mobile phone. With all
the fumbling that went on I managed to leave a drink bottle behind.
Thankfully I realised in time and was able to run back to retrieve
it.
Race distance: 49.4km
Altitude: 1549m
Race time: 08:53:58
Stage speed: 5.62km/h
(downhill)
Race position: 1016
Time in checkpoint: 15
minutes
1:25 ahead of 35hr
schedule. The slip has begun. I lost quite a few places on the
descent when I would normally make up places. My knees were feeling a
bit sore after the past few months of fell racing. Perhaps I needed
sticks. There, I said it. Wash my mouth out.
Les Chapieux to Col
de la Seigne (10.3km)
I remember this section
clearly from previous years and was quite looking forward to it, even
though we couldn't see anything this time. When I was last here in
2011 we were well into daylight on Saturday because of our delayed
start. Now I could picture the terrain and I knew what was coming up.
We had a long, not too steep ascent up a country lane with the river
roaring way below to our right. I recall from two years ago how the
rising ground with its foliage to our left looked just like the
English Lake District or Peak District. It was cold and damp at the
time, which did help with the illusion.
Re-energised by the
bread, cheese and Coke at the checkpoint I found myself hiking or
even running up the lane and overtaking everyone again. I knew it
wouldn't last but I had to ‘make hay while the sun shone’. At
one point as I was hiking alongside another person a movement in his
torch beam caught my eye. A tiny mouse ran out and stopped in front
of him, confused by the light. I expected it to run off but it
didn't. It darted sideways a bit and stopped just where he was
about to put his foot down. He just about saw it in time and modified
his footfall, just as the mouse darted away.
We lost some of the
height we had gained to cross the river before beginning the climb
proper to the Col (losing height only to climb again is what the UTMB
is all about). Torch lights zigzagged their way into the starry sky
once again, their cold white light matching the starlight perfectly.
We could only separate them from the stars because they moved and
changed intensity. When I finally reached those lofty heights, I
looked back to observe the longest and most impressive trail of
torchlight of the entire UTMB. Thank goodness we didn't have the
cloud, wind and snow that we had two years ago.
The Col de la Seigne
was a timing point and emergency shelter only. I could feel my energy
levels dropping after the climb and I needed food. Although the UTMB
instructions tell us never to rest at a high exposed point like this,
I sat down on the leeward side of the tent (sheltered from what cool
breeze there was) to eat an energy bar. As I did so, Simon Webb
appeared at the summit. As I got up to continue my journey with Simon
down to Lac Combal I noticed that I'd sat down right next to a pile
of vomit. It suddenly dawned on me that the ground up there could be
covered with all sorts of UTMB-er issuances. I could feel no damp or
sticky patches upon my person so I considered I'd had a lucky escape.
Race distance: 59.7km
Altitude: 2516m
Race time: 11:16:41
Stage speed: 4.80km/h
(uphill)
Race position: 905
Col de la Seigne to
Lac Combal (4.4km)
This is an easing
downhill section through dramatic glaciated scenery. I would have to
picture it from previous years because it was still pitch black. We
levelled out into the wide pastures of the hanging valley, cowbells
tinkling unseen in the distance to our right, before crossing through
the moraine and descending steeply towards the bright lights of the
checkpoint below in an even wider glaciated valley that we still
couldn't see. Thanks to my fuelling at the Col I ran strongly down to
Lac Combal. As usual it was rather cold in this big hollow and storer
of cold air mass.
Race distance: 64.1km
Altitude: 1970m
Race time: 12:03:12
Stage speed: 6.22km/h
(downhill)
Race position: 888
Time in checkpoint: 15
minutes
1:20 ahead of 35hr
schedule
Lac Combal to Arête
du Mont-Favre (4.3km)
This stage was longer,
steeper and more 'up' than I recalled. It was the first time I had
done it in the dark. The first signs of dawn were beginning to appear
in the eastern sky as we arrived at the Arête.
Race distance: 68.4km
Altitude: 2435m
Race time: 13:16:43
Stage speed: 3.15km/h
(uphill)
Race position: 837
Arête du Mont-Favre
to Col Chécrouit – Maison Vieille (4.9km)
Daylight finally
returned as we descended to Col Chécrouit. Food always seems to be
on ration here, with freshly-prepared nibbles and titbits brought out
on occasion, never seeming to satisfy actual need. This time the
cupboard was almost bare so I washed down some of my own rations with
their Coke. Thankfully, Coke was never in short supply.
Some dogs that were
tied up alongside the Maison kept barking agitatedly. I soon realised
why as a herd of horses came stampeding through several times, one of
them through the runners in front of the food tents. I think they
were playing a game of 'dare'.
Scratching for titbits at Col Chécrouit – Maison Vieille.
Race distance: 73.3km
Altitude: 1956m
Race time: 14:07:22
Stage speed: 5.32km/h
(downhill)
Race position: 856
1:11 ahead of 35hr
schedule
Col Chécrouit –
Maison Vieille to Courmayeur (3.8km)
This section is down,
oh so steeply down, zigzagging back and forth for ever down the
mountainside on dry trails. Italy is definitely on the dry side of
the mountains. This year was even drier than usual, with thick
powdery dust getting kicked up from the single-track with no passing
places. We coughed and spluttered as a line of us got held up behind
a mincer in her dust cloud.
Suddenly the footpath
levelled out to a descending lane into Courmayeur and the narrow,
twisting, ancient streets that led to the sports centre. A volunteer
had my drop bag ready for me thanks to the advanced notification of
my 'dossard' (which shall remain visible at all times). We were
still less than halfway.
After previous
experiences of crashing and burning after a pasta meal, I decided to
forego the refreshments on offer and just ate one of my pork pies and
drank Coke. A change of socks and a restock of supplies had me back
on my way in less than half an hour. I really needed the toilet but
it could wait. The sun hadn't yet risen over the mountains when I
re-emerged into the cool early morning air.
Final run in to Courmayeur in the early morning light.
Race distance: 77.1km
Altitude: 1200m
Race time: 15:03:13
Stage speed: 4.64km/h
(downhill)
Race position: 900
Time in checkpoint: 27
minutes
1:02 ahead of 35hr
schedule. I'm slipping further behind on the descents, sore knees
preventing me from 'letting fly'.
Courmayeur to Refuge
Bertone (4.9km)
Leaving Courmayeur.
Leaving Courmayeur.
It's a slow plod up to
the high traverse between the refuges and back into the morning
sunshine. I had hoped that no big meal at Courmayeur and continual
grazing would keep my energy levels up better than in previous years,
but it was not to be. I would soon start to 'go backwards' as I got
overtaken by others, always struggling to maintain energy in the legs
for the climbs and sore knees holding me back on the descents. My
getting overtaken would be partially compensated by others stopping
for longer at major checkpoints or dropping out altogether, so
overall positioning would not deteriorate too dramatically.
The early morning
paparazzi helicopter started to buzz us as we hiked up to Refuge
Bertone. I wonder if I’ll see myself on the DVD this year. If
previous years are anything to go by, that’ll be a ‘no’. Simon
was still with me. He needed as much rest and recovery as I did. We
made sure we refuelled well before Simon led the way upwards out of
the checkpoint.
Paparazzi helicopter homes in at Refuge Bertone.
Race distance: 82.0km
Altitude: 1989m
Race time: 16:58:39
Stage speed: 3.21km/h
(uphill)
Race position: 777.
This was my highest position at any of the checkpoints, no thanks to
any speed on my part but due to retirements and longer times spent by
others at Courmayeur.
0:09 ahead of 35hr
schedule
Refuge Bertone to
Refuge Bonatti (7.3km)
This is an undulating
traverse with minimal ups and downs, except when the legs have gone
and you’re getting overtaken loads, when the ups and downs suddenly
appear significant. The mountain scenery with precipitous drop-offs
to the left, illuminated by the bright morning sun, did a good job of
taking our minds off the suffering as we passed the halfway point.
Don't step off the trail!
We eventually climbed
to Refuge Bonatti where I greeted the English checkpoint volunteer
once again. She’s a permanent fixture on that checkpoint. Because I
was in survival mode and deciding how best to refuel to keep myself
going, I failed to notice that Lizzy Hawker, multiple female winner
of the UTMB, was standing in the background watching and supporting
instead of running due to injury. I only found out afterwards when
Stuart told me. Of course he recognised her immediately. I looked
back at my photographs to check and sure enough, there she was. I was
mortified.
Lizzy if you read this, please excuse my rudeness. I didn't ignore you deliberately :-0
Refuge Bonatti with Lizzy Hawker applauding lil' ol' me in the background. If only I'd realised.
Race distance: 89.3km
Altitude: 2010m
Race time: 18:39:27
Stage speed: 4.40km/h
(uphill)
Race position: 800
On 35hr schedule
exactly
Refuge Bonatti to
Arnuva (5.2km)
Simon and I needed
another good refuelling rest before continuing the undulating
traverse and descent to Arnuva. The dramatic glaciated mountains and
valley below us to the left kept our attentions rapt once again, the
dazzling sunshine showing it off to maximum effect. Although the sun
was intense, fortunately the temperature was not too high. Conditions
couldn't have been better.
Another Maindru Photo
photographer was lurking around the corner of the left switch-back as
we neared Arnuva. Simon was near the front of a long line as we wound
our way down the single track to the checkpoint on the valley floor,
where a concerned marshal was shouting out instructions to take
plenty of water for the next long stage (14km or 4 hours) without
support in the heat of the day.
Getting scanned at Arnuva.
My turn.
The oasis of Arnuva will be the last for a long time.
Race distance: 94.5km
Altitude: 1769m
Race time: 19:56:05
Stage speed: 4.09km/h
(downhill)
Race position: 856
0:13 behind 35hr
schedule. Since I would not be speeding up, a 35-hour finish would
not be happening but a sub-40-hour schedule should be well within my
grasp, so that became my next target. It was my original secondary
objective anyway (the primary one being simply to finish within the
46-hour cut-off).
Reset: 2:26 ahead of
40hr schedule.
Arnuva to Grand Col
Ferret (4.5km)
We crossed the river
and passed another Maindru Photo photographer before attacking the
next big climb. It’s a case of putting your head down and getting
on with it. The climb is steep but nowhere near the steepest that the
UTMB throws at us; it just drags on at altitude and we’re tired.
Simon was pulling away as we crossed the grassy meadow before hitting
the stony path that zigzags its way up the mountain. He eventually
disappeared out of sight to finish 2hrs 20mins ahead of me. Good
effort Mr Webb!
Most people will grind
to a halt at least once on the long zigzag climb and have to sit down
to eat something to get going again. I passed several in that
predicament. “Been there, done that by night and by day” I
thought to myself as I passed them. I’d probably sat on the very
rocks that some of them were sitting on right now.
It hit me a bit later
than usual this year – quite near the top in fact – but it
happened for sure. The breeze was a little chilly up there so I
couldn't linger for long. Not many people who plodded past me asked
if I was OK because they were in their own world of suffering. We
were all in it together; they knew what the problem was and that it
would only be temporary, so enquiries as to my well-being were
superfluous and a waste of precious energy.
I had revived quite
well a few minutes later by the time I reached the Col and its
helicoptered-in paraphernalia, tents and rigid shelters. I was
thankful for not needing the facilities up here but I did need
another facility. The toilet call was stronger now that I’d been
brewing one for a day. I’d save it for Switzerland, next stop La
Fouly.
High point of the UTMB, Grand Col Ferret, on horizon top left.
Race distance: 99.0km
Altitude: 2537m
(highest point of the course)
Race time: 21:50:27
Stage speed: 2.33km/h
(my slowest stage)
Race position: 894
Grand Col Ferret
through La Peule to La Fouly (9.4km)
It’s a long way down
to La Fouly and my sore knees were holding back my descent, to my
increasing frustration. I was getting overtaken aplenty when I should
have been the one doing the overtaking. However the perfect running
conditions and amazing views helped to make my dawdling worthwhile.
The descent to La Fouly
is such a long stage that by the time I get there, no matter what I
do, low energy levels mean that I'm at rock bottom mentally and
physically. It was the same this year. I plodded down the final bit
of road to the checkpoint to the cheers and encouragement of the
bystanders, wishing they would shut up with their inappropriate
encouragement and wondering how on earth I could continue. A saving
grace was that we were back to the more direct arrival of 2009
instead of the convoluted drawn-out approach we had to endure in
2011.
I tried to shuffle into
the checkpoint but mostly I walked. I so wished it was the end right
there, but a spark in the back of my mind told me that it would get
better because I've ‘been here’ so many times before. I was
basically injury-free and I’d felt worse the previous two times I
was here, so retirement was never a serious proposition. I'd be
nothing short of a lily-livered fraud if I were to retire, so suck it
up like a Dyson and just get on with it! I went in search of Coke,
bread and cheese.
Race distance: 108.4km
Altitude: 1598m
Race time: 23:45:02
Stage speed: 5.27km/h
(downhill)
Race position: 910
Time in checkpoint: 16
minutes
2:06 ahead of 40hr
schedule.
La Fouly through
Praz de Fort to Champex-Lac (14.0km)
I had thought about
doing the captain's log while in La Fouly but it slipped my mind to
search out the bog trailer upon my departure. Fuel was finding its
way back to my brain and legs and I was getting on with the job of
putting one foot in front of the other faster than those around me
once again. It could wait; perhaps Champex.
This was almost a
journey into the unknown now, but not quite. I had been this far once
before, in 2009. The route is very picturesque alongside the
boulder-filled river (glacial debris) before we divert onto a
gratuitous detour into the forest, but we do get a bonus downhill run
down an old railway track-bed back to the river. A marshal is there,
probably to make sure we don't continue ahead across the footbridge
and to impose a penalty if we took a short cut directly along the
river path.
The location of
Champex-Lac at the end of its hanging valley is visible ahead to our
left for a long time as we approach. We just have to climb up the
side of the tree-clad valley to get there. It's the usual slow trudge
on apparently fuel-starved legs (they have no right to feel starved
but they always do). Comparing to how I felt in 2009 I was fair
flying along and had no doubt I'd finish it this time. I was looking
forward to covering new ground before long.
Looking across to our next target. We have to descend first.
Champex-Lac was big and
heaving with UTMB-ers. As I grabbed my Coke, bread and cheese rations
I was aware of a strange light to my right. I turned around to see a
video camera following my every move. A few minutes later I went in
search of some tea (always black, with sugar, with or without lemon)
and the cameraman seized his opportunity. He thrust his appliance
into my face and proceeded to pump me for information. The line of
his questioning was: “Night time is fast approaching. How are you
feeling about venturing out into a second night, into the dark? Are
you scared?”
What? Creepies and
crawlies, ghosties and ghoulies? I sensed that he wanted a response
laced with fear and foreboding and not wanting to do it. I think I
was a big disappointment to him. He wanted hype and I gave the
opposite: “Nah, I'm not scared of the dark or second nights. Done
it too many times before”. I might have mentioned “hundreds” as
well (as opposed to “one hundred and sixties”). I don't think
I'll be appearing in the DVD unless they really took a shine to the
Union Jack shorts.
The lighting at Champex was a bit dim. What about the EU ban on incandescent bulbs?
On my exit I went in
search of the bogs, now with slightly increased urgency. There
weren't many. The one vacant pan in the men's trailer was full to the
brim and overflowing. There was a spare one in the women's. I was
told to use that. “But that's the women's”, I protested. That's
alright, it doesn't matter. (They're very liberal in that department
are the French.) I began to make my move and a woman beat me to it.
Seven usable toilets and all occupied. I gave up and continued on my
way. It would have to wait (again).
Race distance: 122.4km
Altitude: 1477m
Race time: 27:02:14
Stage speed: 4.65km/h
(average slightly downhill)
Race position: 903
Time in checkpoint: 33
minutes
2:09 ahead of 40hr
schedule.
Champex-Lac to
Bovine (9.9km)
With only three
(smaller) climbs and less than 29 miles to go I could almost ‘smell
the barn’. How naïve was I.
Now I really was into
new territory. In my blissful ignorance I was relishing the new
experience. With head torch on head with fresh batteries in readiness
for the second nightfall, and rejuvenated by the latest fuelling, I
set off in pursuit of others once again to make the maximum use of
the remaining daylight. It would be dark before the next refreshment
stop at Trient. We had been advised that there would be no
refreshments at Bovine, so effectively we had a 16.5km stage ahead of
us. That could take quite a long time at this stage of the game. I
could never have imagined how long it really would take.
I had been told by a
previous UTMB completer that it's straight uphill out of Champex.
That didn't happen this time. There was a lot of undulation with an
alarming amount of 'down' before we finally began our climb, during
which it became dark. It was rocky with plenty of mountain stream
crossings and paths doubling as streams. I hate to think what it
would have been like in a wet year.
I have vague
recollections of the gradient easing before Bovine, allowing a faster
walk (walking was pretty much all anyone was doing now). Now out into
the open, the breeze was decidedly chilly. I stopped to put on my
windproof top before making haste through Bovine, which was luxurious
as a timing checkpoint but had nothing to offer as we had been
pre-warned.
Race distance: 132.3km
Altitude: 1987m
Race time: 29:58:52
Stage speed: 3.78km/h
(uphill)
Race position: 839
Bovine to Trient
(6.6km)
This is where the
wheels really must have fallen off. This section is all but erased
from my memory. Records show that it took me over 2 hours to do a
little over 4 miles averaging downhill. That's 2mph.
From the last aid
station at Champex it had taken me 5 hours to do 10.3 miles. 2mph was
my best effort up and downhill. I never imagined I could go so slowly
yet remain as a viable participant in an ultra-marathon. I suspect
lack of fuelling to be the main culprit, especially after Bovine.
It’s not that I wasn't eating, though. I had plenty of my own
food and I was eating it.
Race distance: 138.9km
Altitude: 1300m
(downhill)
Race time: 32:01:44
Stage speed: 3.41km/h
Race position: 888
Time in checkpoint: 20
minutes
1:07 ahead of 40hr
schedule.
Trient to Catogne
(5.0km)
Another brutal uphill.
I was taken-aback by the toughness of these final climbs. After
Champex with less than 29 miles still to go, we might think the worst
of it is over and we're on the homeward stretch, but far from it. If
anything these climbs were even steeper and more energy-sapping.
On this second of three
final climbs with the early stages of hallucinations creeping on, I
have recollections of:
- Zigzagging steeply
upwards very slowly to the accompaniment of others’ sticks clicking
on the rocks;
- A racing mind in a
dreamlike state making up its own reality from intermittent images
glimpsed in my torchlight (my torch wasn't flickering, it was my
mind);
- Sitting down on a
rock to eat yet another piece of food to get myself going again;
- Getting overtaken
(still).
The latest sit-down and
piece of food having done its trick for the time being, after the
summit we enjoyed a brief downhill romp in the dark to the timing
tent of Catogne. Both ends were open to allow easy run-in, scan and
run-out. I lingered awhile for a photo shoot opportunity. I must have
been feeling better to bother with that but I still looked weary.
Race distance: 143.9km
Altitude: 2027m
(uphill)
Race time: 34:30:27
Stage speed: 2.55km/h
Race position: 913
Catogne to
Vallorcine (5.3km)
My memory is virtually
non-existent for this stage, but the route profile shows all downhill
and steepening dramatically into Vallorcine. My pace was undoubtedly
slowed by sore knees that had long since ‘had it’ with
descending. The one thing I remember having fixed in my mind was
looking forward to reaching Vallorcine, because then I would be back
into France and at the top of the Chamonix Valley, so nearly home
with just 12 miles to go. Yeah, right.
It was still pitch
black as I romped into the marquee at Vallorcine. I set about
grabbing my rations for the umpteenth time (that’s right, Coke,
bread and cheese plus some black tea with sugar as a chaser). I was
sufficiently ‘with it’ to take a few more pictures. A big gas
heater with a top hat provided warmth. A warmly-clad UTMB-er stood
underneath it trying to soak up its heat. I still felt comfortable in
shorts and featherweight windproof top with not much on underneath.
Warming under the heater at Vallorcine.
Race distance: 149.2km
Altitude: 1260m
(downhill)
Race time: 36:15:18
Stage speed: 2.92km/h
Race position: 956
Time in checkpoint: 16
minutes
0:40 behind 40hr
schedule. A shocking slowdown but who gives a stuff? I would revert
to my original primary objective of just finishing.
Vallorcine through Col des Montets to La Tête aux Vents (7.7km)
A good refuelling gave
me a miraculous new lease of life. Also the lower altitude may have
played a part, but I fair raced out of the checkpoint still in the
pitch black, the uphill gradient to Col des Montets being gentle
enough for me to chase down and overtake all before me. They probably
wondered how on earth this scantily-clad, Union Jacked upstart sans
sticks who had been dragging so slowly when they overtook him earlier
could now be romping past them as if he’d just started his race. I
could not believe how good I was feeling. It was time to 'make hay
while the sun shone' once again.
We enjoyed some uphill
road running before hitting the trail at the foot of THAT WALL, which
was added to the UTMB as a sadistic sting in the tail a few years
back. A line of torch-lights, well spread out by this late stage,
wiggled its way to the stars. I was still feeling strong as I
continued to pursue and overtake others on the steepest, most
gratuitous climb of the whole event. Car drivers cruised back and
forth on the highway down below, peeping their horns in wild
encouragement at the spectacle of our lights winding their way into
the sky. I fed off their energy to continue the hands-and-feet climb
up the boulders, rock steps and wooden steps that got us to the top
of La Tête aux Vents.
On the way to the top
and mountain goat country, daylight returned and, big surprise, I
caught up with Stu, who had left me for dead before Les Houches. He'd
teamed up with UK runner Simon James to get to that finish line as a
pair, come-what-may. That's ultra-running camaraderie at its finest.
Have a look at
Simon's report, which communicates the true horror of
what we went through. I'm afraid I'm too old and battle-hardened to
communicate such emotion any more. Stu’s equally impressive report
is
here.
Daybreak and the gradient has finally eased on the way to La Tête aux Vents.
I don't even recall La
Tête aux Vents as a timing station. All I know is that it would have
been up where the mountain goats roam and before the sun rose above
the Mont Blanc massif across the other side of the Chamonix valley.
Race distance: 156.9km
Altitude: 2130m
(uphill)
Race time: 39:07:26
Stage speed: 2.96km/h
Race position: 902
La Tête aux Vents
to La Flégère (3.0km)
As we contoured along
the mountain side, hopping across rocks and boulder fields, climbing
and descending ‘headlands’ towards the ski station of La Flégère
(which never seemed to get any closer), I checked behind me to see if
I could see Stu and Simon in hot pursuit. I couldn't, which
surprised me.
The Chamonix valley draws us home.
The urge to drop a
depth charge was now becoming increasingly desperate. It was now
nearly two days old and wanted out. It came over me in waves. I
scanned the terrain for suitable boulders and bushes but none would
do. In any case there were too many people up there. La Flégère was
my last and only chance.
You can guess my first
question upon arriving at the marquee doorway. The helpful marshal
led the way through a doorway, along passages and past the kitchens
to the oasis, where the crime was committed upon the porcelain. I
hope I didn't crack it. You cannot imagine the physical and mental
relief. I spent so long in there relaxing, someone turned the light
off.
"This one needs the bog" (in French of course).
Many people including
Stu and Simon overtook me while I was ensconced. Upon emerging I took
my final refuelling, including getting one of my bottles filled with
Coke, which they were happy to do. I’d seen this being done for
others at earlier checkpoints, which surprised me because the rules
stated that only water could be taken away from aid stations. Any
other drinks were for drinking from cups at the checkpoint.
Race distance: 159.9km
Altitude: 1860m
(downhill)
Race time: 40:07:42
Stage speed: 3.55km/h
Race position: 915
2:00 behind 40hr
schedule.
La Flégère to
Chamonix (7.8km)
The sun was well up and
it was warming up again. Before leaving the checkpoint I sorted out
my attire for comfort into the third day of ‘running’ (I use that
term loosely), so back to running vest it was.
Final descent to Chamonix.
The descent back down
to Chamonix provided one of the longest runnable stretches of the
whole event. I so wanted to run all of it but the knees continued to
say 'no'. On the way I caught up again with the fellow Brit who
developed a lean very early in the event. We’d passed back and
forth a few times. I was amazed that he had kept going at such a
decent walking pace for so long with that back muscle weakness that
must have put him under so much strain. His finish really was a
triumph. Looking at the results I'm guessing it was most likely
Andrew Arnold, who finished in 42:17:21.
Andrew if it was you,
superb effort. I hope your back recovered quickly afterwards.
As I alternated between
running (shuffling) as much as I could bear before having to walk
again, I welled up with emotion at the thought of finally crossing
that finish line, a pleasure that had been denied me twice before. I
entered the outskirts of Chamonix and followed the markers on the
magical mystery tour of the town. The cheering crowds began to appear
as I got closer to the centre. I glanced behind me to check that I
wasn't going to get overtaken again. I did, but only one final time
as I ran alongside the milky grey-green river of glacial melt water.
Excuse the dramatic
license but I could have been the race winner as I ran alone between
barriers that near-buckled under the weight of the cheering crowds.
Professional and amateur photographers strained for that perfect shot
as I sprinted across the line and knelt down to kiss that hallowed
piece of ground, full of emotion that I’d finally cracked it. It
had to be third time lucky, do or die, last chance saloon, but you
don’t 'alf have to commit to suffering to achieve it.
Race distance: 167.7km
Altitude: 1035m
(downhill)
Race time: 42:01:49
Stage speed: 3.80km/h
Race position: 991
2:02 behind 40hr
schedule.
Doing the tour of the town
I get overtaken one last time.
FINALLY I make the full journey!
Stu and Simon had
finished 14 minutes ahead, the time difference being more than
accounted for by the munitions deployment at the pan of La Flégère.
Amidst much
endorphin-fuelled ear-bending with fellow runners and supporters, I
slowly made my way to the finishers’ refreshment gazebo, where we
spent a couple of hours in the warm morning sunshine drinking beer
and reminiscing about what we had just experienced. I didn't want
it to end but it had to. There was a drop bag to reclaim, a ‘caution’
(deposit) to get back for the timing chip, a bath to have (where I
started to fall asleep) and, finally, 2 hours’ proper sleep in a
proper bed before hitting the town in the evening for din-dins,
drinky-poos and more animated ear-bending with fellow Ultra nutters.
The UTMB is one
awesome, challenging event like no other I have done. The
organisation, support, location and terrain make it special enough
but the crowds and spectators raise it to an even higher level. It is
a very good ambassador for France and the French.
My race pictures are
here.
Some UTMB 2013
statistics
Starters: 2469.
Finishers: 1686.
Retirements: 783.
Finishing rate: 68.3%.
1st man:
Xavier Thevenard (France) in 20:34:57.
1st woman
and 7th overall: Rory Bosio (USA) in 22:37:26.
1st Brit and
11th overall: Jez Bragg in 23:50:01.
The obvious word is
“HOW”. How can it be possible for anyone to run those distances
over that terrain in those times?
My time: 42:01:49.
Position: 991st
(top 41.1% of starters, bottom 41.2% of finishers).
Total distance: 168km
(105 miles).
Total ascent: 9,600m
(31,500 feet).
(Height of Mount
Everest from sea level is 'only' 8,850m.)
The conditions were
probably as good as they can get (it’s about time!). A long dry
spell led to good conditions underfoot. It was sunny by day without
being too hot. The nights were clear and starry and not too cold
(i.e. it remained above freezing even at the high points). Wind chill
was minimal.
Post-UTMB
I spent three recovery
and chill-out days in Chamonix after the UTMB.
Day 2 was spent up
l'Aiguille du Midi at 3,842 metres, beneath Mont Blanc and
overlooking the Chamonix valley. All pictures are
here.
Chamonix valley.
Day 3 was spent up at
Montenvers and the Mer de Glace glacier. All pictures are
here.
Glacier is covered with rubble.
Ice caves carved inside the glacier.
The warm sunny weather
remained with us throughout. The whole experience was out of this
world and probably unbeatable, so I guess I won’t be going back.
“Been there, done that.” Just treasure the perfect memory.
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